PUERTO CABEZAS, Nicaragua
- Clebas Thompson was crawling around in the murky haze 140 feet
below the surface of the Caribbean looking for spiny lobster when he felt a
sudden sickness.
''It was late in the afternoon and I had gone through about 12 tanks [of
air] and was feeling really dizzy like I was drunk,'' Thompson recalls,
slurring his speech and struggling to tame his jerking leg. ``I got scared
and swam to the surface and that's when it hit me. I started throwing up and
then I had some sort of attack.''
What hit him was
a severe case of
decompression sickness, or ''the bends.'' He was taken to a decompression
chamber in Puerto Cabezas that saved his life, but it was too late to save
him from being a virtual quadriplegic at the age of 28.
As foot soldiers in the $40-million-dollar lobster export industry,
Miskito Indian divers like Thompson are increasingly being killed and
crippled as they hunt deeper into the sea for thinning patches of lobster to
place on U.S. tables.
Facts are hard to come by in this Nicaraguan slice of the Caribbean that
never graces travel brochures. Here, there are more marshes than white-sand
beaches.
Young men in wheelchairs seem to outnumber tourists. Often they have
suffered the bends, caused by a buildup of nitrogen in his bloodstream --
the inevitable result from diving too deep for too long and surfacing too
fast.
The local Association for the Integration of the Disabled into Society
estimates there are 1,500 crippled ex-divers along Nicaragua's Atlantic
coast, although other organizations cite about half that number. A 1999
World Bank report on Nicaragua's Miskito divers found ``some limited medical
studies have shown close to 100 percent of divers show symptoms of
neurological damage -- presumably due to inadequate decompression.''
And according to the Louisiana-based foundation, Sub Ocean Safety Intl.
(SOS), a full 30 percent of the region's lobster divers will suffer a
''traumatic accident or die'' within their first five years on the job.
Poorly trained, shoddily equipped and completely unsupervised, many
divers are being pushed well beyond international norms by profit-driven
boat captains and exporters, says SOS founder Robert Izdepski.
''There is no effort by the industry to teach them about the real dangers
of diving because they'd be scared to death to work,'' he says. ``This is
like a mine owner knowing the shaft is crumbling and sending men into their
deaths anyway.''
Without depth or pressure gauges, divers are encouraged to work from
sunrise to sunset, typically going through eight to 12 tanks a day for 15
days, an amount of diving far exceeding the limits of safe diving. Most work
without contracts, lured by the prospect of making $2.40 to $3.00 per pound
of lobster. Onshore, the fleet sells the haul to one of the handful of
processing and export plants that place 90 percent of the product in the
U.S. mainland.
There, in restaurants and stores, a five- to six-ounce tail can fetch $15
to $20 dollars. ''Sometimes I could bring in 80 or 100 pounds in a day and
make over $1,000 per trip,'' recalls Thompson. ``There's no other work out
here that makes so much money.''
His salary was huge in this country where per-capita income is less than
$500 a year. But the money never seemed to stick. The only amenity in
Thompson's one-room home, which he shares with his wife and four children,
is a 14-inch color TV. He watches cartoons in as he does exercises a
therapist taught him.
After more than a year of needing help to eat, urinate or even roll over,
in the last three months, he has regained enough strength in his arms and
rigidity in his legs to support himself on a walker.
''I haven't left the house in three months, because there's no one that
can get me down the stairs,'' he says. ``It's hard to be shut in here all
day and not be able to work.''
Dr. Humberto Castro Olayo is the Atlantic coast's only expert in
hyperbaric medicine. Since 1996 he has helped over 500 divers and has seen
dozens more die, but by his guess that's less than 20 percent of the cases.
''Most of the divers are from little villages,'' he explains. ``When they
get sick they just go back to their community. Some die and others stay
there paralyzed, but we never hear about it.''
He was hoping a two-month ban on lobster diving would restock the shallow
waters and limit injuries, but on a recent night as the season's first boat
was docking, his hopes were fading. The Miskito sitting in front of him felt
debilitating pain in his back and knees; his reflexes were shot.
''If the chamber were running I would put him in for two hours, because
there's no way to tell how many nitrogen bubbles he has built up or what
might happen to him,'' Olayo said. For the first time since 1997, the
country's three decompression chambers (one of which was donated by SOS) are
out of order. ``All I can really do is treat the pain and hope he gets
lucky.''
As far as Olayo is concerned, it's the boat owners, who reap huge profits
and bring him damaged divers, that deserve the brunt of the blame, but that
still leaves plenty to go around.
''I would call it widespread institutional neglect,'' he said, adding
that government needs to regulate the industry, and that boat captains and
exporters need to take responsibility for their workers as well.
For starters, he suggests that divers should receive adequate training
and certification.
By most accounts, the new government that took power this year is taking
the problem seriously. For the first time ever, it imposed a two-month
lobster moratorium, and labor and health officials have come here to assess
the situation.
But this town is used to empty promises. Those who live here aren't
holding their breath to await reforms.
''I've talked to reporters, government officials, foreigners -- all sorts
of people -- and they all say they will do something to help us,'' Thompson
observed. ``But then they leave and nothing ever happens.''